Sheaffer Repair Tools

ITEM #VAC FILL SEALS: VITON/FKM O-RINGS AND BUTYRATE WASHERS FOR REPLACING SHAFT SEALS ON SHEAFFER VACUUM FIL PENS. These go with the RZ tool, above. The butyrate washer dissolves on top of the O-ring and glues it in. 10 each of the o-rings and the washers.

$20

ITEM #RZ-B: A USEFUL ADDITION TO THE RZ TOOL. USED TO CENTER THE DRILL BIT THAT IS USED TO REMOVE THE OLD PACKING FROM THE BARREL OF THE PEN. FITS INTO THE OPEN END OF THE BARREL, THEN GUIDE A DRILL BIT THROUGH IT TO REMOVE THE OLD PACKING AND SEAL.  Chuck and barrel not included.

$10

ITEM #.25dril: 1/4" DRILL BIT FOR REMOVAL OF OLD SHEAFFER VACUUM FILLING PEN SHAFT SEALS.  For use with tool RZ, above.

$5

ITEM #.25REAM: 6 FLUTE 1/4" REAMER FOR CLEANING OUT THE HOLE AFTER DRILLING OUT THE OLD SHEAFFER VACUUM FILLING REAR SEAL.   For use with tool RZ, above.

$21

ITEM #S32: LADY SHEAFFER TOOL.  This specialized tool is used to take apart the front end of Lady Sheaffer fountain pens. Lady Sheaffer Pens have a recessed hex sided hole with a cartridge piercing tube coming out of the center of hex sided hole. This tool is the equivalent of an Allen wrench with a hole board into the end (good luck attempting to make one of these at home!) Simple, but very useful tool for working on Lady Sheaffers. The pen is not included.

$20

 

ITEM #PFM SAC PROT: SAC PROTECTOR FOR PFMs.   Newly manufactured with the same form, fit and function as the originals. Replaces the hard to find, frequently damaged and mangled originals. The rubber/plastic plugs for the front are not included.

$51

ITEM #D9: SHEAFFER PLUNGER SHAFT GUIDE - IMPROVED.   This and the next four tools are intended to prevent you from going nuts while working on Sheaffer pneumatics (Plungers, Snorkels, and TouchDowns). This tool makes it unnecessary for you to poke the plunger shaft around trying to find the hole that goes through the rear of the barrel/seal while inserting the threaded tip of the plunger back through the seal. This operation is especially difficult since the plunger shaft length is close to the length of the barrel of the pen and your fingers don't fit into the barrel. This is almost an exact duplicate of the Sheaffer tool found in Sheaffer repair guy's tool kits. I say almost, because I embellished the design by making the business end long enough to go ALL THE WAY THROUGH the barrels so you can align the dimple (or, on newer models, a screw-on point) into the tip of the tool's shaft with the end of the plunger shaft and slide the shaft right through the seal without poking around blindly. The shaft of this tool is the same diameter as the plunger shaft, so the junction of the two shafts slides through the rear seal. And of course, in an application lioke this, silicone grease should be used.

A second impprovement that I've made is that I've put a threaded hole in the end of the tool shaft where Sheaffer's design only had a dimple on the end. You can now screw this tool onto the pen's plunger shaft.

A third improvement is that there is a screw-on pointed tip that you can use to guide the shaft of the tool through the back of the seal and into the pen barrel. This is especially helpful after you've replaced the rear seal (say, with our RZ tool). JUST BE CAREFUL; THIS SCREW ON TIP IS SHARP. DON'T PUT YOUR HAND OR OTHER PARTS OF YOUR BODY IN THE PATH OF THE SHARP TIP!!! a NEW SEAL WILL REQUIRE SOME FORCE TO GET THE TOOL'S SHAFT THROUGH IT.

$20

The pen plunger shaft shown below is not included with the item; it is shown for illustrative purposes. The screw-on point is the same diameter as the pen's plunger shaft; the putty shown on the tip below is there to keep the point from rolling while it was being photogrraphed.

(this tool, with the pointed, screw on tip removed, also fits through the hole in the tip of a snorkel sac protector to help push the front plug out of the sac protecror. A lot of heat helps in this application).

ITEM #S32: LADY SHEAFFER TOOL  for getting the sections apart on Lady Sheaffer pens. This specialized tool is necessary to reach into the hex hole in the back of the section while allowing the cartridge puncture tube to pass through the center of the hex wrench so the threaded plug can be removed to let the nib and feed slide out the back of the section. The DIY literature instructs you to drill a hole in the end of an allen wrench to do this job. Good luck with that.

$20

ITEM D19: SHEAFFER SNORKEL and TOUCHDOWN O-RING SEATER.  A double-sided tool that gets inserted into the front of the barrels of Snorkels (one end) or into the barrels of Touchdowns (the other end of the tool) to provide a stopping point, or a small, round platform to help you get the o-ring into the groove in the back of the pen. A variation of an old Sheaffer repairman's tool called a "COMPRESSION GASKET STOP". But this one is two sided, to accommodate two different pen models. It also comes with a metal tamper with an O-ring sized circular notch to help seat the O-ring from the top of the barrel once you get the O-ring in roughly the correct position.

$20

O-RING SEATER SHOWN WITH TAMPER ON RIGHT

HERE'S A PAGE FROM A SHEAFFER REPAIR MANUAL

ITEM #S24 PFM: O-RING SEATER FOR SHEAFFER PFM REPAIR.  Helps a great deal in getting a new O-Ring seated in the back end of a PFM barrel. To use it, you remove all the parts from inside and outside the barrel, take the old O-Ring out with a D3 probe, clean the slot out and grease it up, stick the business end of this tool through the front of the barrel, and work a new O-Ring into the slot on the pen. The tool comes with a small tamper to help push the O-Ring down and sideways into the slot. The S24 PFM provides a bottom inside the barrel to guide the O-Ring into the slot. And you're good to go. Finish putting the rest of the pen together. This is another tool designed to keep you from going nuts while working on Sheaffers.

$20

ITEM #D9: SHEAFFER PLUNGER SHAFT GUIDE - IMPROVED.   This and the next four tools are intended to prevent you from going nuts while working on Sheaffer pneumatics (Plungers, Snorkels, and TouchDowns).

This tool makes it unnecessary for you to poke the plunger shaft around trying to find the hole that goes through the rear of the barrel /seal while inserting the threaded tip of the plunger back through the seal. This operation is especially difficult since the plunger shaft length is close to the length of the barrel and your fingers don't fit into the barrel. This is almost an exact duplicate of the Sheaffer tool found in Sheaffer repair guy's tool kits. I say almost, because I embellished the design by making the business end long enough to go ALL THE WAY THROUGH the barrels so you can align the dimple in the tip of the tool's shaft with the end of the plunger shaft and slide the shaft right through the seal without poking around blindly. The shaft of this tool is the same diameter as the plunger shaft, so the junction of the two shafts slides right through the rear seal.

This tool is also very useful in helping to push the sac protector plug out of a Snorkel (entering through the back hole in the sac protector), with the help of a little heat and a very tiny knife worked around the circumference of the plug, being careful not to cut off the plug's ears.

$20

NOTE: The three brushes presented below are all different sizes and are not interchangable; we've scoured the planet to find the perfect sized brush for each application below.

ITEM #STD SNORK BRUSH:  This brush is the optimal diameter to clean-out the sac residue that becomes welded onto the walls of the metal sack protector found inside a Sheaffer Standard sized snorkel. If you run into the problem where the complete sac won't come out because it is stuck to the walls of the sac protector after you've gotten the sac protector off of the pen and removed the plug, go outdoors and put the sac protector in a shot glass and fill the shot glass with acetone. Don't do this indoors, don't let kids near it, and don't get the acetone on yourself or the rest of your pen, and warn anyone that gets near it what you're doing so they don't drink it. Let the sac protector soak for about a half hour, remove it from the acetone, and clean the old (now softened) rubber out with this brush. No need to ruin your foil-thin metal sac protector with a drill bit, which can come out the opposite end of the sac protector along the axis or ruin it by having the drill bit push the rock-hard old rubber outward in a radial direction.

$10

ITEM #PFM BRUSH:   This brush is the optimal diameter to clean-out the sac residue that becomes welded onto the walls of the metal sack protector found inside a Sheaffer PFM snorkel. If you run into the problem where the complete sac won't come out because it is stuck to the walls of the sac protector after you've gotten the sac protector off of the pen and removed the plug, go outdoors and put the sac protector in a shot glass and fill the shot glass with acetone. Don't do this indoors, don't let kids near it, don't get the acetone on yourself or the rest of your pen, and warn anyone that gets near it what you're doing so they don't drink it. Let the sac protector soak for about a half hour, remove it from the acetone, and clean the old (now softened) rubber out with this brush.  

$8

ITEM #TOUCHDOWN BRUSH:   This brush is the optimal diameter to clean-out the sac residue that becomes welded onto the walls of the metal sack protector found inside a Sheaffer Touchdown. If you run into the problem where the complete sac won't come out because it is stuck to the walls of the sac protector after you've gotten the sac protector off of the pen and removed the plug, go outdoors and put the sac protector in a shot glass and fill the shot glass with acetone. Don't do this indoors, don't let kids near it, don't get the acetone on yourself or the rest of your pen, and warn anyone that gets near it what you're doing so they don't drink it. Let the sac protector soak for about a half hour, remove it from the acetone, and clean the old (now softened) rubber out with this brush.

$8

ITEM #D11, D 11-B, and D 11-C (SPECIFY WHICH AFTER READING BELOW): TOOLS FOR REMOVING BLIND CAPS FROM SHAFTS ON SHEAFFER VACUUM FILLING PENS.  

There are 4 different methods Sheaffer used to terminate the threaded plunger shafts into its blind caps; one simply employed the screwing of the shaft into the blind cap requiring little more than some sort of soft pliers to hold the shaft while the blind cap is being turned, and 3 other methods utilized unique screws with the shafts going through the centers, described as follows (PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE PLACING AN ORDER):

A) A screw with a relatively fatter slot releasable using wrench D 11.

B) A screw with a thinner slot releasable using wrench D 11-B.  You COULD sometimes use wrench D 11-B on the fatter slotted screw in A), above, but you would booger-up the slot in the very soft aluminum, much the same way that too small of a regular screw driver would damage a slot thicker than that for which the screw driver was intended.  That is, you might be able to use a D11B tool in a D11 slot IF YOUR BLIND CAP HAS WIDE ENOUGH THREAD CLEARANCE INSIDE THE BLIND CAP FOR THE D 11-B, which isn't always the case. If there is play when the tool is inserted into the slot, better go to tool D 11 before applying torque.

C) A screw with just a notch on either side of the shaft on the circumference of the screw, not a continuous slot, releasable using wrench D 11-C.

68% of the 166 pens and parts pens in my inventory that I’ve checked use the first, more simple, direct screwing of the shaft into the blind cap using no screw while 7% utilize method A) above, 18% utilize method B), and 8% utilize method C).

Need to figure out if your screw slot requires a D11 or a D11B? If you have very tiny drill bits, try this, using the back ends of drill bits: a screw slot requiring a D11B can accept a 0.036" maximum drill bit back end. A slot requiring a D11 tool can take in a 0.061"drill bit back end. The 0.061 drill bit will not fit into the screw slot that requires a D11B.

The D11 tool is also narrower in terms of blind cap thread clearance than a D11B.

.

$10 ea. (Specify which config: D11, D 11-B, or D 11-C) We are temporarily out of D11B

ITEM D19: SHEAFFER SNORKEL and TOUCHDOWN O-RING SEATER.  A double-sided tool that gets inserted into the front of the barrels of Snorkels (one end) or into the barrels of Touchdowns (the other end of the tool) to provide a stopping point, or a small, round platform to help you get the o-ring into the groove in the back of the pen. A variation of an old Sheaffer repairman's tool called a "COMPRESSION GASKET STOP". But this one is two sided, to accommodate two different pen models. It also comes with a metal tamper with an O-ring sized circular notch to help seat the O-ring from the top of the barrel once you get the O-ring in roughly the correct position.

$20

O-RING SEATER SHOWN WITH TAMPER ON RIGHT

HERE'S A PAGE FROM A SHEAFFER REPAIR MANUAL

ITEM #S24 PFM: O-RING SEATER FOR SHEAFFER PFM REPAIR.  Helps a great deal in getting a new O-Ring seated in the back end of a PFM barrel. To use it, you remove all the parts from inside and outside the barrel, take the old O-Ring out with a D3 probe, clean the slot out and grease it up, stick the business end of this tool through the front of the barrel, and work a new O-Ring into the slot on the pen. The tool comes with a small tamper to help push the O-Ring down and sideways into the slot. The S24 PFM provides a bottom inside the barrel to guide the O-Ring into the slot. And you're good to go. Finish putting the rest of the pen together. This is another tool designed to keep you from going nuts while working on Sheaffers.

$20

ITEM #PFMRINGS: O-RINGS FOR THE BACK END OF SHEAFFER PFMS AND THE LARGER (LATER) TOUCHDOWNS.  These O-Rigs fit in the groove in the back of the barrel just below the blind cap. See also the S24 & D19 O-Ring seaters on the Sheaffer tools page. These tools provide a platform inside the pen barrel to help guide the new O-Ring into the groove, saving a lot of time and frustration.  

Pkg. of 10 for $20

ITEM #SNORKLRNGS: O-RINGS FOR THE BACK END OF SHEAFFER SNORKEL AND EARLIER (SMALLER) TOUCHDOWN PENS.  These O-Rigs fit in the groove in the back of the barrel just below the blind cap. See also the the D19 O-Ring seaters on the Sheaffer tools page. These tools provide a platform inside the pen to help guide the new O-Ring into the groove, saving a lot of time and frustration.  

Pkg. of 10 for $20

ITEM #D12:  A 1mm RIGHT ANGLE NANOPROBE / PICK. Ideal for removing Sheaffer O-rings and cap clip anchors, to name a few applications. The tiny tips of this tool are delicate, so think of it as an instrument, not a crowbar.

$12

NOTE: The three brushes presented below are all different sizes and are not interchangable; we've scoured the planet to find the perfect sized brush for each application below.

ITEM #STD SNORK BRUSH:  This brush is the optimal diameter to clean-out the sac residue that becomes welded onto the walls of the metal sack protector found inside a Sheaffer Standard sized snorkel. If you run into the problem where the complete sac won't come out because it is stuck to the walls of the sac protector after you've gotten the sac protector off of the pen and removed the plug, go outdoors and put the sac protector in a shot glass and fill the shot glass with acetone. Don't do this indoors, don't let kids near it, and don't get the acetone on yourself or the rest of your pen, and warn anyone that gets near it what you're doing so they don't drink it. Let the sac protector soak for about a half hour, remove it from the acetone, and clean the old (now softened) rubber out with this brush. No need to ruin your foil-thin metal sac protector with a drill bit, which can come out the opposite end of the sac protector along the axis or ruin it by having the drill bit push the rock-hard old rubber outward in a radial direction.

$10

ITEM #PFM BRUSH:   This brush is the optimal diameter to clean-out the sac residue that becomes welded onto the walls of the metal sack protector found inside a Sheaffer PFM snorkel. If you run into the problem where the complete sac won't come out because it is stuck to the walls of the sac protector after you've gotten the sac protector off of the pen and removed the plug, go outdoors and put the sac protector in a shot glass and fill the shot glass with acetone. Don't do this indoors, don't let kids near it, don't get the acetone on yourself or the rest of your pen, and warn anyone that gets near it what you're doing so they don't drink it. Let the sac protector soak for about a half hour, remove it from the acetone, and clean the old (now softened) rubber out with this brush.  

$7

ITEM #TOUCHDOWN BRUSH:   This brush is the optimal diameter to clean-out the sac residue that becomes welded onto the walls of the metal sack protector found inside a Sheaffer Touchdownl. If you run into the problem where the complete sac won't come out because it is stuck to the walls of the sac protector after you've gotten the sac protector off of the pen and removed the plug, go outdoors and put the sac protector in a shot glass and fill the shot glass with acetone. Don't do this indoors, don't let kids near it, don't get the acetone on yourself or the rest of your pen, and warn anyone that gets near it what you're doing so they don't drink it. Let the sac protector soak for about a half hour, remove it from the acetone, and clean the old (now softened) rubber out with this brush.

$7

ITEM #CLICKERFIXER: SHEAFFER BALLPOINT PEN RETRACTOR MECHANISM TOOL.  A Sheaffer repair tool for installing clickerss into their early clicker ballpoints. Its operation is explained on the paper found with it (see below). It comes with a block, a pushing tool, a punch and (4) clickers, the clickers being quite possibly used. This will not work on later Sheaffer ballpoints, only those using the clickers shown in the photo below. Comes with instructions.

$125

ITEM #tbd:  

$xxx